Monday, June 4, 2012

Richmond, Charleston, and Savannah 2012


Well, kiddies, Uncle Bill (and Aunt Mary!) are back from vacation!

Whoo-hoo!

We had a friggin' blast!

(Except for that one speeding ticket in Virginia... 83 mph. in a 70 mph. zone. Oops!)

Made great time both ways. I'd say that without stops, we're talking six hours from Harriman to Richmond and six hours from Richmond to Charleston. With stops call it seven hours each leg.

Cost wise... driving was the way to go. Yeah, we had to lay out a few bucks for hotels and meals in Richmond - and of course gas (and the $129 speeding ticket) - but still... all costs associated with flying considered... we definitely "won" by driving. Not only did we save money, but we experienced Richmond! (And seriously... considering the logistics of flying nowadays... beyond the financial savings of driving... driving back and forth to airports, arriving early, facing possible flight delays... even if airfares hadn't been as high as they were this year, I'm thinking that an apples to apples comparison still gives driving the nod.)


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So let's see... another point by point Barker travelogue:


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Saturday, May 26, 2012

On the road at 5:00 a.m. headed for Richmond Virgina. Even with a few stops... and a couple run-ins with traffic... by 12:10 p.m. we were checking into our hotel - the Richmond Airport Doubletree.

Not a bad hotel. We were given a top floor suite - living room, bedroom, two TV sets, fridge and microwave.

Here's the thing though...

You guys know how I pick my accommodations according to which hotel, inn, or B&B has the nicest swimming pool...

The reason we picked the airport Doubletree was because they had the nicest pool of all the places we'd considered which had availability on the Saturday night of Memorial Day weekend!

Well... (*SIGH*)... remember this post, folks?

Yep... Obama strikes again! 

After checking in we decided we'd drive into Richmond (literally seven minutes to downtown!) and then come back for a swim at the hotel prior to going out for the night. As we were heading to the car I said to Mary, "hey, hon, let's check out the pool before we head out!" Well... (*GNASHING MY TEETH*)... we did. Guess what? The pool - as well as the attached hot tub - was empty!

Yes, my friends... the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend... the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend in the southern state of Virginia... the beautiful outdoor pool with a deep end was one huge empty cement hole in the ground!

Yes, folks... even though the federal government had "backed off" of their worst threats weeks ago and even though the Obama administration had "formally" walked back the compliance date earlier in the week (I'd read about this in the WSJ), apparently Hilton Hotels (as a corporation) were unable to turn on a dime and get all their pools up and running as they normally would have. 

(This particular Doubletree actually began filling their pool on the Saturday night we arrived and they told us that they'd have the pool up and running on Monday - Memorial Day itself. Not much help to us!)

Anyway... (*SIGH*)... laying the matter of the hotel pool (that wasn't open) aside, let's move on to the glories of Richmond!

First stop... Capital Ale House! Oh, yeah, folks... cask conditioned ales! Oh... and great food as well! (Check out the menu - I had "The Admiral.") A great bartendress and friendly fellow-customers gave us the low-down on other "must hit" spots and indeed we were able to hit two that night! (But first... back to the hotel for a much needed nap!)

First stop Saturday night... Legend Brewery! Just across the 8th St. Bridge from center city - offering a fantastic view of the city from the back patio - and offering fine, fine brews, including (*DRUM ROLL*) yet more cask conditioned ales! (Oh, baby... oh, baby... oh, baby...)

I've just gotta give a shout-out to our waiter Zack who chatted with me about beer and without even being asked thought to bring us samples of all the beers he thought we'd especially like! (What a great kid!) In addition to great beer I must say the food looked - and smelled - wonderful! We didn't have any, however, because we already knew where we were heading for dinner that night - Comfort!

Ah... Comfort! Browse the site, folks. As you'll see... definitely a "Bill" sorta place!

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Sunday morning... I slept in while Mary went to the hotel's fitness center. (*WINK*) Then off to a decent hot & cold buffet breakfast right there at the hotel. On the road by 10:00 a.m.

We did make a few stops on the way down (gas was $3.34 gal. in Virginia vs. $3.53 in NJ a couple days before) but even so, we arrived at our destination - the North Charleston Inn - at 3:45 p.m. (Wow... so that means without stops... it shouldn't take more than five hours or so to make it between Charleston, S.C. and Richmond, VA.!)

So... before we continue... let me tell you folks why we stay at the North Charleston Inn:

1) They boast the largest hotel pool in Charleston - with an 8-ft. deep end.

2) Convenient location; right in the center of the circle we travel around when visiting Pat and Vicki and Kiawah Beach in one direction, Charleston proper in another direction, Folly Beach in another direction... you get the idea.

3) A large fridge as well as a microwave in every room.

4) Our first floor courtyard/poolside non-smoking King cost us something like $54 a night! (And free breakfast each morning with fresh made waffles...!!!

Oh... and speaking of the waffles... (*PAUSE*) (*GRIN*)

Our first "excursion" each trip down to Charleston is to the local Super Walmart where we stock up on beer, water, poolside snacks, and of course real maple syrup and Cabot butter for my beloved waffles! Remember, folks... I am after all... er... me. There's a certain lifestyle to maintain!

Anyway... after checking in and getting settled we took a swim break. Pat and Vicki had just gotten home themselves from a long weekend in New York where they had attended a wedding and since Pat had to work the next morning we decided that Mary and I would do our own thing Sunday night leaving Pat and Vicki to decompress. So... after Walmart... after the swim... it was off to Red's!

Red's Ice House! The original! On Shem Creek! Home of the $13 pitcher of mixed drinks...!!! (Oh, yeah... and tons of good, inexpensive, hearty, fresh food!) Folks... browse their website; this is definitely a "Bill" kinda place!

After spending a couple quality hours at Red's it was back to the North Charleston Inn for a bit of...

Monday, May 28, 2012

Breakfast at the Inn. An after breakfast swim. A bit of reading and relaxation by the pool. Out and about before noon - first stop... the Blind Tiger Pub in Charleston.

Oh, yeah, baby...!!! $2.50 bottles of Newcastle and an outdoor back ally patio with tables, chairs, and even a swing! (Oh... and spritzer fans to counter even the worst heat and humidity!)

Yep... hung at the Tiger for... awhile.

After our lunchtime libations we strolled the city for a bit - that's what one does in Charleston... drinks... strolls... eats... strolls... drinks...

(*HUGE FRIGGIN' GRIN*)

(Oh... almost forgot... another one of Monday's stops - another one of our annual stops - The Griffon.)

(*CHUCKLE*)

Monday night... family BBQ over at Mary's brother Pat's house on Johns Island. This was our first visit to their newly constructed house and boy, oh, boy... a beautiful home in brand spanking new development tastefully decorated by my beloved sis-in-law "The Vickster."

Nephews Dom and Brendan were up here in New York all last week so unfortunately we missed seeing them, but nephew Sean was around and so at least I had someone to tease! (On the bright side... with two out of three boys MIA... Uncle Bill's wallet got less of a workout than it's used to when visiting Charleston!)

(*WINK*)

We ate... we drank... we strolled the development. All in all a fine, relaxing evening!

(But wait! There's more!)

Both Pat and Vicki had to work the next morning so Mary and I hit the road a bit after 9:00 p.m. Where'd we go? Why... into Charleston, of course!

First... cocktails at Fleet Landing.

Next... up to our old stomping ground... the Rooftop Cocktail Bar at the Vandue Inn.

Folks... com'on... am I a hopeless romantic, or what?! Mary is some lucky woman!

Hey... how do you top the... er... top? You don't! So... next stop... back to the North Charleston Inn!

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Following the usual breakfast and post-breakfast swim, off to Vicki's and Pat's to pick up Sean! Tuesday... Folly Beach!

After a bit of swimming in the warm Atlantic waters of Charleston in late May it was time for lunch. I let Sean lead the way and he guided us to what at first appeared to be a hole in the wall (and actually it was...)  but turned out to be the perfect lunch spot - The Drop In Deli and Bar!

Let me tell ya, folks... outstanding food and a damn nice beer selection - both on tap and bottled! (By the way... I had a sandwich not listed on the online menu - the Red Neck. Basically a spicy steak and cheese! Friggin' awesome...!!!)

After lunch we dropped Sean off at home and then off Mary and I went to the Holy City Brewery.

Wow... just... wow...

After downing a few of what I would consider Charleston's tastiest local brews it was back to the Inn for a post-happy-hour/pre-dinner swim. After a swim and show... off to The Glass Onion for Tuesday night's dinner!

Yum!

Great beer and wine list... wonderful food!

My favorite part of the meal... Belle's Country Sausage with Pimento Cheese, Garlic Toast and Pickles!

Oh... my... friggin'... God! This sausage... this homemade sausage... the best friggin' sausage I ever had in my life!

While it wasn't late when we finished up with dessert, it was raining by then and frankly we were stuffed. (*SMILE*) So... that night we were "home" by 10:00 p.m. to end the evening with a bit of relaxation in bed just vegging out watching TV.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Big day on Wednesday! Relaxing morning at the Inn, followed by a "field trip" to one of the bars recommended by the fine folks at Holy City Brewery - Closed For Business!

Man, oh, man... what a great place! They had my beloved sour beers on tap

Really a great place... I only wish we'd had more time to spend there or been able to fit in a return visit. Oh, well... next year!

And speaking of next...

Leaving Closed For Business on upper King Street in Charleston, next stop, off to take a harbor cruise courtesy of Pat and Vicki with Pat, Vicki, and Sean!

It was a beautiful day for a cruise; plenty of sun, but not too hot; calm waters as well. We met up with the gang at Patriot Point; the cruise boarded right on time and for the next hour and a half we motored around the harbor - passing right by Fort Sumter as we made our sweep of the harbor. Best of all, while Pat and Vicki had taken the cruise before, this day's cruise took a different route than the ones they had been on before so for them it wasn't just the same ol', same ol' that hosts so often have to tolerate as the price for showing visitors a good time!

(*WINK*)

The cruise ended at 5:00 p.m. and so we had 90 minutes until our next excursion - to Husk with Pat, Vicki, and Sean!

We went our separate ways to change for dinner... (ok... ok... I did fit in a swim after the cruise and before leaving for dinner)... and met at Husk at 6:30 p.m.

What a wonderful restaurant! Voted "America's Best New Restaurant" by Bon Appetit last year, Husk truly lived up to its billing.

Folks... check out the menus... including the cocktail menu, wine list, and extensive selection of bourbons!

Usually one needs to make reservations for Husk weeks (if not months) in advance, but thanks to the perseverance of my beloved bro-in-law Pat Kelly we did get in and what a meal it was! (Speaking of cocktails... I had three!)  

The service was outstanding and the ambiance of our second floor dining room... simply perfect!

The food....? Oh... my... God...!!! My grouper was just out of this world - and a huge hunk of fish, not "fru-fru" sized!

The damage...? Not all that bad. With tip, Mary and I laid out $150.00 - Pat, Vicki, and Sean's meals combined came to 200.00 with tip.

After dinner we resisted the urge to hit the Husk Bar - which is housed in a separate stone two-story renovated carriage house right next to the Husk Restaurant proper. Instead, we strolled up and down King Street where we at one point we stopped for frozen yogurts.

All in all... a wonderful day and memorable night spent with Pat, Vicki, and Sean.

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Ah... day trip to Savannah, GA., with bro-in-law Pat and nephew Sean!


Picked 'em up at 9:30 a.m. and off to Savannah! It's about an hour and a half from Charleston to Savannah, but we made a stop, so, by the time we actually parked in one of the municipal lots on the river in "tourist country" it was 11:30 a.m. 


We strolled the river walk for awhile, chatted with a few locals, and via their advice headed for our first "real" stop... Moon River Brewing!


Oh, yeah, folks, as you'll note if you click on the brewery link, this bar offers cask conditioned ales - my favorites!


Yum-Yum-Yum...!!!


I actually had a couple beers there while Mary had one and Pat and Sean each had... water


(*SADLY SHAKING MY HEAD*)


(*A LONE TEAR DESCENDS DOWN MY CHEEK*)


Oh, well... I do what I can to set a good example. Perhaps the lads simple need more "Uncle Bill" time...


(*SHRUG*)


After re-hydrating we took a walk around the city center, stopping in at Paula Dean's restaurant to pay our respects to the Queen of Butter, and also visiting the Savannah Candy Kitchen for a bit of... er... sampling.


Oh... I also made a stop at a restaurant advertising fresh made peach sangria via their blackboard! Um-um-um...! Tasty indeed!


Now... by this time we were all pretty hungry. Sean had been going on about there being a great BBQ place in Savannah that they'd been to, but to me the key words were "been to." While hitting Blowin' Smoke would have no doubt put a smile on my face, I wanted to introduce Pat and Sean to the best lunch spot in Savannah... Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room.


Now, folks... you may be wondering... how did I know which was the best lunch in Savannah? Simple! I asked! The first folks to tell us about Mrs. Wilkes were the fine folks at the river walk tourist office. But then, subsequently, each person whom I asked about Mrs. Wilkes' during our travels (gift shops, the pub, the candy store) "seconded" the motion that if we were able to get a seat there we definitely should!


Folks... just check out Mrs. Wilkes' menu!


Anyway... although we got there a few minutes after the official last seating, the fine folks at Mrs. Wilkes' took mercy upon a poor, hungry yankee and offered to seat us. 


(*PAUSE*)


It was at this point where Sean told Pat that he couldn't eat at Mrs. Wilkes' because of his diet. So... Pat took the car keys and took Sean to his beloved BBQ joint while Mary and I had one of the best lunches we've ever had - surrounded by a bunch of local lawyers and politicians! (Oh, yeah! We had the fun table!) To my left was a sitting Board Member of the NRA! Across from me... a group of black politicians whom I'm guessing were Democrats. (*WINK*) But, hey... we all had a good time chatting over a fine meal!


Well... we finished up... called Pat... and after waiting just a few minutes sheltering ourselves from a brief rain shower he and Sean showed up and off we drove back to Charleston.


After dropping Pat and Sean back home, Mary and I headed to the Coast Brewery in North Charleston. Spend about an hour there tasting Coast's brews. Frankly, none of their brews knocked me ou, but a good time was had by all and I can attest that there are some damn fine people working there! I wish them all the luck and success in the world!


After Coast... EVO


Yep... Extra Virgin Oil. That's the name of this wood fired oven using Neapolitan pizza joint with a fine beer selection.


It was too early for dinner, so we ordered a calzone (to go) as a snack, brought it back to the Inn, and consumed it by the pool - where by the way we spent the next hour or so swimming in and reading by.


(*WINK*)


After our snack/relaxation time it was off again to Charleston!


We walked around a bit. Thought about eating at F.I.G. but after not being thrilled by the day's menu we continued strolling down Meeting Street till all of a sudden I heard it... a funky sort of Latin jazz...


Yes! We had stumbled upon Eli's Table!


Folks... I strongly urge you... browse Eli's webpage! You'll see why Eli's is certainly a "Bill kinda" place!


Oh... and the band? Afro-Cuban jazz! Very... very... cool.


You'd think this would have been the cherry on top of the whipped cream for the day... but, no... we had one more stop to make before heading back to the Inn.


Husk Bar.


As previously mentioned, "Husk" is actually two buildings - the main restaurant and right next to it a two-story bar.


I had enjoyed Wednesday night's drinks at Husk restaurant so much that I had my heart set on visiting their bar! So... I did. (We did!


Unfortunately... (*SIGH*)... the drinks weren't as tasty on Thursday as they had been on Wednesday. Why? Our waitress told us that they had run out of a certain ingredient (blood orange liqueur) which turned out to be crucial to the make-up of "my" drink as I'd had it the previous night.


I've gotta say - and I did say this to the waitress - if Husk indeed wants to be known as the best restaurant in Charleston (let alone America!) then for heaven's sake, "running out" of crucial ingredients isn't gonna win 'em any kudos!


I also have to take a moment and "lecture" on what true "service" should mean at a restaurant of the caliber of Husk:


1) When we were first taken upstairs to the lounge we were seated at a table that hadn't been properly cleaned and I actually had to ask for the waitress to get a wet rag to clean it off!


2) The lighting was so dim as to make it impossible to peruse the drink menu without literally moving to the other side of the room so as to get direct lamplight!


3) The waitress actually brought our drinks and then informed us that the bartender had told her that he had no blood orange liqueur so he'd simply made the drinks without.


(*JUST SHAKING MY HEAD*)


4) When I asked the girl if someone had gone next door - to the restaurant itself... to the restaurant bar - to check to see if they had any blood orange liqueur left she looked at me like I was crazy.


(*SNORT*)


Folks... here's what should have happened: 


First of all, Husk shouldn't run out of ingredients but if they do all menu items featuring said ingredients should be temporarily "crossed off" the menu.


Second, of course you check both bars for the damned blood orange liqueur! (And if this had happened at lunch... or during other normal "business hours"... you send someone to the nearest liquor store to pick up a bottle...!!!)


Third, the dirty table... (*SIGH*)... I don't care if you're short staffed or what - this shouldn't happen in a five star establishment!


Last but not least... the drinks should have been on the house - or at least another round offered gratis - as a gesture that they understood such foul-ups aren't acceptable and that they understand that accepting responsibility for them is part of what being a great restaurant is all about.


Anyway... it's not as if the drinks were terrible... it's not like the bar was a dump... but, again... at this level...


(*SHRUG*)


Anyway... it was still a great night!


Friday, June 1, 2012


Ah... Friday... our last full day and night in Charleston! Also our last "beach day," this time with Vicki! (Sean deserted us! Said he was sick! Actually... the kid just doesn't like the beach.) (*WINK*)


Anyway... breakfast, lounging by (and in!) the pool. and then off to pick up the Vickster! By 11:00 a.m. the three of us were off on our way to Kiawah!

While there is a beautiful public beach on Kiawah which we go to (and which was on of our stops that day), Kiawah Island is by and large a gated community of less than 2,000 year-round residents and thousands of well-heeled tourists who rent homes there for days, weeks, and even months. On this trip - by claiming that we were heading to "The Sanctuary" for shopping and lunch - we were able to enter and tour the private area of Kiawah which few other than guests ever get to see. 


We must have spend a good 90 minutes strolling the interior and grounds of "The Sanctuary" and exploring the rest of the Island by car. Simply lovely!

Next... off to the public beach for a couple hours of swimming and sunning. 

Next... off to "Little Red's" on Seabrook Island at the Bohicket Marina! (Yep... the sister property of "Red's Ice House!") A pitcher of cocktails... some food to go with the pitcher... (*GRIN*)... and then a walk up and down the marina ending at an ice cream parlor when Vicki bought us treats!


(*HUGE FRIGGIN' GRIN*)


After our day with Vicki it was time to head back to the Inn for a swim, a beer, and showers!


Our last night in Charleston... where else to go for dinner but Virginia's?!


Although this "low country" restaurant had been on "THE LIST" from our very first trip, this was the first time we'd actually be dining there.


Unfortunately... it'll probably be the last.


Our waitress wasn't the friendliest.


The food was good... but not outstanding.


The atmosphere in the main room where we sat... not very romantic.


Worst of all... they had run out of the tomato pie I'd had my heart set on trying!


Confession: Vicki and Pat had warned us that neither Virgina's - nor another "low country" standard-bearer that we'd been wanting to try, Poogan's Porch - was going to give us the "total" experience that most restaurants on "THE LIST" give, but... (*SIGH*)... I was stubborn and had to find out for myself. (Score one for Pat and Vicki!)


To make up for the "miss" with Virginia's, we decided to drop by Circa 1886 for dessert.


(*FALLING TO MY KNEES IN HOMAGE*)


Oh... my... God...


Folks... two desserts... a double espresso for me... regular decaf for Mary... with tip... $36.


But well worth it...!!!

I can honestly say that my dessert (called "A Taste of the Tropics" - homemade blondie ice cream sandwich served with a coconut soda and mango salad on the side) was one of the most awesome desserts I've ever had in my entire life!

Circa 1886 is another Charleston restaurant which had been on "THE LIST" from the beginning of our annual pilgrimages to Charleston and let me tell you, folks... next year... Circa 1886 is a priority to hit for dinner - even though it's gonna mean bringing my sports coat along just for that outing!

Saturday, June 2, 2012

After breakfast... on the road by 10:00 a.m.

Even with a few stops along the way - including being stopped by a very polite yet unfortunately "non-courteous" (*WINK*) Virginia State Trooper - we made it to our hotel in Richmond, DoubleTree Downtown, before 5:00 p.m.


Ah, yes... the DoubleTree Downtown Richmond hotel... offering Richmond's only rooftop pool and observation deck...


(*PAUSE*)


...a pool and observation deck which were closed for renovations...!!!


Folks... screw Barack Hussein Obama and his out of control federal agencies which - mark my word - were behind the twin disasters of having my vacation "bookend" hotel pools closed when they should have been... and normally would have been... open as promised!


Oh, well... when disaster strikes... (*PAUSE*)... DRINK!


So off for a return trip to Legend Brewing we went! (We even got the same waiter - Zack!)


After a couple beers... off to Burger Bach!

Folks... (*PAUSE*)... incredible! Simple incredible. 


Folks... (*ANOTHER PAUSE*)... if you're ever within an hour's drive of Richmond... get your ass to Burger Bach!


Finally... (*SIGH*)... last night of vacation... a last stroll down and up the streets of Carytown and a stop at the Carytown Bistro for dessert and coffee al fresco with a lively jazz combo for our entertainment!


(*SMILE*)


Sunday, June 3, 2012


Waking up to a beautiful last day of vacation with all of Richmond laid out around, above, and below us from our 16th floor room, we started the day with a buffet breakfast provided by the hotel as a gesture of apology for the pool being closed.


As is my usual custom, I requested a late check-out (which was of course provided) so as to give us time to check out Richmond's grand dame hotel - The Jefferson - and also to attend a city center street fair - Broad Appetit - that was being held just two blocks down the road from our hotel!


Well, folks... that's pretty much it!


We were on the road by 1:00 p.m. and home by 7:00 p.m.


All in all another wonderful Barker vacation! 


Driving vs. flying... it was definitely the way to go! As noted, we were able to get gas for $3.34 in southern Virginia (vs. NJ gas at $3.59 the day before we left) and in South Carolina... (*DRUM ROLL*)... we were able to buy gas for $3.19 a gallon!


Since Sammi (Mary's Sonata 2.0T) averages 30 mpg. even with fuel prices above three bucks our total fuel bills were far below what it would have cost us to fly. 

Plus... two nights in Richmond, Virginia!


Again, folks.. another wonderful Barker Vacation!



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