Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Back From Oregon


Well, folks... another Billcation under my belt!

Let me just state up front... I put over 1,500 miles on the rental car!

Yep... from Seattle to Mt. Hood to Seal Rock to Portland...

Shout outs to my buddies Cary (and her sister Heather who lives in Portland) and Lisa (a client/friend who lives in Portland with her husband and adorable kids) who shared advice and feedback with me prior to the trip. Unfortunately we didn't get a chance to hook up with Heather, but we did enjoy cocktail hour at Lisa's parent's mansion (no shit, folks!) overlooking Portland and the mountains prior to heading over to Lisa and John's beautiful home for a fine al fresco meal!

So let's see... highlights:

For our first two nights, we stayed at Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood.

Folks... it's good to be Bill!

I urge you folks to follow the link and check out the lodge and its history. Timberline isn't just another grand dame hotel... it's a national historic site set within a national park and the "story" of the Lodge is just as fascinating and marvelous as the building itself set atop such a magnificent vista!

And, yes... of course I availed myself of the large, outdoor, heated swimming pool and hot tub!

As always, I made friends of the staff at Timberline. Yep... when "Bill from New York" visits, a good time is had by all! Where this came in most handy was at the "magnificent mile" ski lift. Even as hotel guests, there is a fee for skiers and sightseers alike to use the ski lifts and at $15 a pop I'm guessing the average tourist does the ride once and calls it a day. Not so for Bill and Mary! Nope... my buddies at the lift center were not only kind enough to let us take multiple rides on the same day, but they even allowed us to utilize our own made-up "two days of lift rides for the price of one" Barker Pass!

(*WINK*)

Again, folks... it's good to be Bill!

So let's see... besides swimming... besides riding the sky lift... besides the bountiful Sunday brunch at Timberline... there was of course drinking!

Our post-brunch Sunday was spent driving both sides of the Columbia River, first taking scenic Rt. 35 down the mountain from Government Camp to Hood River, crossing the bridge, and driving west on the Washington state side along scenic state Rt. 14 to Stevenson, WA., where we took a rest and relaxation stop at the Walking Man Brewpub - one of the top 15 brewpubs in the United States according to the authoritative RateBeer.com organization!

And, yes... I concur!

PLUS... the place is dog friendly...!!!

After quenching the ol' thirst - and contributing to the Washington state economy - it was across the Bridge of the Gods to the Oregon side and more scenic driving along Interstate 84 and ultimately Oregon state Rt. 30 so as to hit all the biggies (Multnomah Falls, Crown Point Vista House, etc.) and then the west to east loop back to Timberline Lodge via U.S. 26.

Yeah, yeah... I know... I'm throwing a lot of links out... (Anyway... I won't go point by point through the whole trip, but being that the scenery was a key component of the trip I feel it's worthwhile to provide a frame of reference.)

Anyway... after a morning ski lift ride and a dip in the pool we checked out of Timberline just before noon on Monday and after a quick stop at the Ice Axe Grill (home of the Mt. Hood Brewing Co.) for lunch it was a 200 mile trip down and across the state via the Alsea Highway - aka Rt. 34.

Folks... I tell ya... I just can't rave enough about the scenery!

We arrived at our destination - the Caledonia House B&B in Seal Rock - a bit after 7:00 p.m. and after being checked in to our suite - the Sanda Suite - it was right back out for dinner at a wonderful restaurant in nearby Newport which our hosts Dee and Belinda were kind enough to recommend as their favorite... Panache.

Folks... let me tell ya... if you're ever in - or even near - Newport, Oregon... have dinner at Panache!

Next morning (Tuesday) started with a wonderful three-course breakfast and then a drive down the coast - first stop: Sea Lion Caves.

Besides being a really neat place, one of the staffers there gave us a great restaurant recommendation in Florence which we later took advantage of!

After seeing the Sea Lions in this stunningly magnificent natural setting it was time to continue south to Florence, Oregon, a lovely little town right on the river close to the ocean bay. Mary and I strolled through the old town visiting the various galleries (Ted and Mary would have purchased thousands of dollars worth of local art!) and stopping for a late lunch at the Firehouse Restaurant (can you guess the decor?) after reading the blackboard special of clam chowder with shrimp, crab, and melted swiss cheese!

(*UMM-UMM-UMM*)

After Florence it was time to continue heading south so as to visit the Umpqua River Lighthouse - which we were able to tour! (Rob would have enjoyed this!)

Speaking of lighthouses... the quintessential Oregon Lighthouse is the Heceta Head Lighthouse, which, unfortunately, was closed off to visitors while we were in Oregon. That said, we did get some beautiful photos from up above the lighthouse and even from a distance the lighthouse is a sight to behold.

Last bit about lighthouses... the next day - on our way up the coast heading for Tillamook - we were able to visit the Yaquina Head Lighthouse which sits high up above the Pacific Coast.

Anyway... back to Tuesday's travels... after leaving the Umpqua Lighthouse site we continued down the coast as far south as Coos Bay/Charleston before turning around for the drive "home" to Seal Rock. We decided that we'd try the Florence restaurant our "buddy" at the Sea Lion Caves had recommended and so at 7:30 p.m on a Tuesday night in Oregon we entered the Waterfront Depot... only to find the place packed to the rafters with diners who had beat us to the punch!

Folks... there wasn't even a single bar stool open!

Anyway... we sat down at a small side table in the "waiting" area and started chatting with a businessman who too was waiting for a table... or even a bar stool. After ordering drinks it occurred to me that it couldn't hurt to ask if they'd allow us to simply eat at our "waiting" table and the gentlemen waiting with us said he'd be more than happy to be served there as well. "No problem" said our waitress!

Man... follow the links... check out the menu... I had the crab encrusted halibut with chili cream sauce and caesar salad for...

(*WAIT FOR IT*)

...$12.

Yep. You read that right. TWELVE DOLLARS!

Folks... Oregon ain't New York! Indeed, Mary and I only broke $100 twice during our entire nine night vacation! I believe our most expensive meal came to $125 - and that was including tip!

Folks... we're talking $4 pints...

(*CONTENTED SIGH*)

Anyway... after dinner it was a 90 minute ride back home and nighty-night!

Next morning (Wednesday) started with another wonderful breakfast, a stroll around the property, and then off down the coast to explore Cape Perpetua!

Folks... typical "Bill move"... we entered the park not via the main entrance where "normal" visitors would enter and receive their trail guides and such. Nope. Not for us! We (accidentally - I swear!) apparently mistakenly took a "logging" entrance into the park and for the next 90 minutes or so we drove the both paved and unpaved roads up and down the mountain cliffs and only twice did we happen to run across other human beings - one of whom was the driver of a log-hauler!

Again... this would have made for a great "Rob" adventure!

After finding our way back to U.S. 101 we drove down to where we could catch Rt. 126 heading east for Eugene and lower Oregon wine country! To make a long story short, here's where we stopped:

Sweet Cheeks Winery - Our favorite!

Silvan Winery - Another real winner!

King Estate Winery - Too "corporate" for my taste... (*SHRUG*)

Sarver Winery - Like King, they pissed me off by charging a tasting fee. Beautiful place, though!

Ninkasi Brewing Company - Nice...!

And finally... for our dinner that evening... Belly. (Check out the menu!)

Anyway... another late night... we didn't get back to the B&B till after 11:00 p.m.!

Next morning (Thursday) after another outstanding breakfast it was time to head up the coast to Portland. We
checked out of the Caledonia House a bit before 11:00 a.m. and after stopping at a glassblowers shop made straight for the Rouge Brewery in Newport for lunch and libations!

Man... what a great 90 minutes or so!

Because I'd be driving all day we limited ourselves to only sampling 18 Rouge beers, but, man, they had some tasty concoctions! (And the food wasn't half bad either!) And while we drank, we also played cards and eventually played a couple rounds of Connect Four!

After (reluctantly) leaving the brewery's pub we headed up the coast stopping here and there - the previously mentioned Yaquina Head Lighthouse was one stop, as was the Flying Dutchman Winery (which by the way is set cliff-side offering fantastic views)!

Somewhere between Lincoln City and Tillamook we ran into a bit of a delay caused by a log-hauler truck apparently losing its breaks up ahead while coming down the mountain and as a result slamming into a building and causing a "slight" traffic "situation." Luckily for us, we got stuck right next to a church which Mary went in to in order to get directions around the mess. Mary was indeed successful - a very kind woman mapped it all out for us and even gave us her cell number to call if we got lost - and after turning around and detouring through some very pretty country we arrived at our last major pre-Portland destination... the Tillamook Cheese Factory!

Now the tasting wasn't as extensive as I would have liked, but... we picked up some cheese and other stuff at really low prices and indeed there's still some of their 3-year-old cheddar left in my fridge as well as their 2-year-old cheddar unopened in my fridge! (Oh... and they also make ice cream - and I had a cup!)

Anyway... after filling the tank with (relatively) cheap gas in Tillamook it was off to Portland. We reached our destination - The Fulton House B&B - just as evening was falling and instead of being checked into a "room" we found ourselves in our own basement apartment, complete with separate bedroom, bathroom, and "great room" with a large sectional sofa, easy chair, dinette table with chairs, gas fireplace, and big-screen TV with premium cable!

Oh, yeah... and besides breakfast each morning... each afternoon our hostess would leave fresh baked cookies in our room!

After stowing our luggage and setting up our bathroom supplies we headed out to find a drink and something to eat in Portland. First stop... the Deschutes Public House!

Oh, man... oh, man... oh, man...

Not just one, but two cask ales were on tap! What a happy, happy, happy, happy place!

I was hungry as well as thirsty, but for whatever weird reason, the pub menu didn't include a steak & cheese sub - which was exactly what I was in the mood for! So... me being me... I simply asked the waitress for a recommendation for where I could get a good steak & cheese after 10:00 p.m. The answer... Life of Riley Tavern at the corner of NW Everett and NW 10th Avenue!

Not a brewpub... but a damn good bar nevertheless! (And let me tell ya... a kick-ass steak & cheese!)

Well... we finally got back "home" to the Fulton House sometime after midnight and we both slept like babies!

The next morning - our first in Portland proper - started off with a breakfast of yogurt, fresh berries, granola, eggs, bacon, coffee, and juice. (See, folks... this is what I like about B&Bs - the breakfast part!) Our Friday mission... check out nearby Mt. Angel.

Our "targets" in Mt. Angel: St. Mary's Church; the Mt. Angel Abby; and of course... the Mt. Angel Sausage Company.

Simply awesome! All three! Seriously...!!! The little church... wonderful. Browse through the link provided and check out the stained glass artwork. As for the Abby... it's simply a must-stop for anyone visiting the Portland area. As to the sausage factory...

Classic Bill story:

So... we're at the "bar" at the Mt. Angel Sausage Company chowing down (I highly recommend the pepper-cheese wurst - served "red, white, and blue" style!) and chatting with our hostess and I ask her for some advice on which local wineries to visit. She points to a guy who was in picking up some wurst and says to him, "Hey, Chris, these folks from New York would appreciate some wine advice."

Well, "Chris" was kind enough to recommend a few wineries. During our chat I mentioned that a new friend of ours whom we had met at our Seal Rock B&B was also in Portland for the weekend and that she had called us earlier to let us know that there was some sort of Pinot tasting taking place by the train station over the weekend and we were thinking of attending. At that "Chris" pulled out a business card and wrote "admit two" on it and told us that if we were to attend the Pinot tasting to show his card at the gate.

Well... the next day we did indeed go to the "Pinot City" tasting and we did indeed hand the business card to an admissions rep. Immediately we were directed to the media/industry gate where we were respectfully handed credentials (like the staff wear at concerts!), wine glasses, and goody bags and asked if we'd be needing credentials for the following day's tasting as well!

(*GRIN*)

Well... for the next three hours I was "Chris" - "Chris the important wine guy." Simply hilarious! One vintner even commented that "I'd" never sampled his wine before and he appreciated my "fitting him in" on this occasion!

We did hook up with our new friend later in the day at the tasting (a judge from Colorado) and she got quite a kick out of the story. Then... when she told us that tickets to the tasting were $70 pp WE were the ones getting a kick out of our luck and good fortune!

Only Bill, huh...?!

Anyway... back to Friday... after spending the afternoon exploring Mt. Angel we headed back to the Fulton House to freshen up before meeting my clients/friends Lisa & John (and their great kids, Jack and Ava) who had invited us to dine with them at their home that night, but before that, to join them for views and cocktails at Lisa's parent's home located high on a bluff overlooking Portland with Mt. Hood and the "Three Sisters" in the background.

Folks... I pride myself on my ability to live vicariously through my "rich" friends, but Lisa's mom and dad... they're the real deal! Mary was barely able to refrain from taking out the camera to take pictures of their home... their mansion! Seriously... what a frigg'n house! Huge! Open... airy... beautifully furnished... and the outside balconies and patios...

(*JUST SHAKING MY HEAD IN ADMIRATION*)

Oh... and here was the best: At one point Lisa's mom asks Lisa's dad to show us his cars. Well... we head downstairs one level... stroll past the wine room which reminds me of a bank vault... and into the garage to find three classic cars - all red - parked as if the garage was a showroom - which in a way it was!

Ted... Mary... Carl... Antoinette... Rob... Maria... John... Cary... you folks need to all redouble your professional efforts so as move up in the world... taking me and Mary with you!

(*HUGE FRIGG'N GRIN*)

Oh... and then there was dinner at John and Lisa's house - which was no shack itself! A stately mock Tudor with a lovely landscaped back yard, we dined al fresco and we couldn't have enjoyed ourselves more! John and Lisa... thank you for your friendship!

After leaving John and Lisa's it was straight back to the Fulton House for a (relatively) early bedtime. (After all, the next day would be the wine tasting!)

OK... Saturday... after yet another wonderful home-cooked breakfast (where I managed to piss off some fellow guests - California libs - who made the classic mistake of outing themselves as NYT readers and... ugh... Paul Krugman fans) it was time to take the bus (yes... the bus) into town for a day of strolling and drinking.

Off we went on our 10-minute bus trip to "downtown," where we got off and began a walk around town meant to get our bearings. (Portland really is a friendly town; we hadn't walked more than 50 feet before a Snapple delivery truck guy gave us two free Snapples!) After an hour or so of walking around we ended up at the Rogue Distillery and Public House on 1339 NW Flanders Street.

Ahh... a happy place indeed!

Rick the bartender was a fine fellow and aside from the fine pouring job he did (both with the beers and the samples of Rogue Dead Guy Whiskey and Rogue Single Malt Whiskey of which I partook) he was also kind enough to steer us to some prime wining, dining, and and chugging points of interest! Indeed, he steered us towards two places which for whatever reason weren't on "the list" and which I'm grateful he turned us on to!

After quenching our thirsts and snacking a bit it was time to head on down to the Pinot City wine tasting... already described.

After three hours of wine tasting it was time to head back to Fulton House for a little rest...

(*GRIN*)

After showering we spent a couple hours watching "Race to Witch Mountain" prior to heading out for dinner at Laurelhurst Market Restaurant and Butcher Shop.

Yum...!

After drinking (literally) all day I stuck to housemade fresh lemonade.

As for our appetizer... Suppli Al Telefono - braised shortribs & mozzarella risotto fritters, arugula, cured olives.

Main courses? Steak frites for the Poops and for me a grilled Piedmontese ribeye with blue cheese butter and best fried sweet onion rings I've ever had!

Oh...! And mustn't forget the side of mac & cheese!

Dessert? Housemade basil ice cream. (Refreshing and palate cleansing...)

Following that meal (one of only two which broke $100 - and not by much!) it was straight back to the Fulton House and... bed.

Folks... eating and drinking is hard work...!!!

The next day (Sunday) was spent going from garden to garden, brewpub to bar, and finally to dinner at Portland's oldest restaurant!

First stop after breakfast... the Japanese Garden.

Second stop... the International Rose Test Garden.

Third stop... the Lan Su Chinese Garden.

All three gardens were worth visiting and had their positives and negatives. The Japanese Garden offers the largest space and the best views... but the highest admission prices; the International Rose Test Garden is free... and free is for me... and also offers wonderful vistas; while the Chinese Garden is the most elegant... the most formal... and they also have a tea house on site which we took advantage of!

Fourth stop... the Cascade Brewing Barrel House.

Ahh... sour beers...!!!

Anyway... after a bit of... er... "sampling" at Cascade (along with food, of course!) it was off to the world famous Brass Horse Pub!

What a happy, happy, happy place... (*SIGH*)

Next... "home" to shower and change clothes and then off to dinner at Huber's.

Folks... does this sound like a "Bill Place" or what...?!?! (And check out the menu!) (Oh... oh... and check out the cocktail list!)

Suffice it to say... I really liked this place! (Louis XIII as well as Macallan 25 on the bar!)

The next morning... breakfast at 8:00 a.m. We hit the road at 9:15 a.m. and after a few quick stops along the way had the rental car back by 12:45 p.m. and were at the airport soon after.

Uneventful flights. (I was however pissed that there was no Chicago Deep Dish Pizza at ORD's Terminal N where we caught our connection!)

When we finally arrived back in Philly "aunt" Bernie and Damien were there to meet us and even though it was after midnight (local time) when we left the airport, I insisted upon making a "slight detour" into city center so as to get a cheesesteak at Geno's... followed by another cheesesteak at Pat's.

I preferred Pat's cheesesteak...

Hey... btw... thanks again to Patsy and Bernie for hosting us, taking us out to the Brazilian Grill on the night before our flight, taking us to the airport and picking us up from the airport upon our return! Dinner's on me the next time you're in town!

Anyway, folks... that's it! Another Billcation for the record books!

Next stop... Key West in October!

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