Sunday, June 6, 2010

Back from South Carolina!


Well, gang... as always... it was a hell of a trip!

The flights were great; both left early and arrived early! We flew Spirit Airlines out of LGA into MYR for $37 each way per person plus taxes and fees - $213.80 total for two people to fly roundtrip!

(The fact that $65.80 of that was taxes and fees... well... you tell me with a straight face that government is not out of control...)

Our full-size Enterprise rental car cost us just under $200... and again... something like $60 of that was taxes and fees...

(People... think about that... think about the percentage of taxation that is... does it sound like anything even close to reasonable to you...??? At what point is excessive taxation an unconstitutional impediment to travel...???)

Anyway... early Sunday afternoon arrival... we hit the road and our first stop... Hog Heaven, formerly Yum's Barbeque. Nice down-home barbeque; nothing fancy, but one hell of a buffet for $6.99 per person plus sweet iced tea for another buck and a half or so. We're talking the real deal; nice little high school girl waitress who told us with an authentic drawl that her momma hailed from New York... up by Lake George!

(Hey... speaking of the drawl... the young lady at the rental car counter at MYR had a drawl that could melt butter; I actually asked her to talk some more because the sound of her voice just put a grin on my face!)

Anyway... back in rental car we continued south on Rt. 17 headed for Charleston. In Georgetown we discovered that gas could be had for $2.45/gal. We also discovered that it's pretty easy to mistake "17 South" for Route 17 "alternate" South/Charleston - which we inadvertently "detoured" upon.

(Actually, as it turned out... no biggie; it may have added a half hour to our trip, but we got to see more of "the country" and we also experienced the drive through Congaree Swamp.)

Anyway... we made it to North Charleston easily enough and checked into our hotel, the Hyatt Place.

Now as friends and relatives reading this know, I'm a bit of a lodging snob. I'm partial to Grand Dame hotels, upscale B&B's and historical inns. Yet... bang for the buck is a key consideration. Bottom line... we got a mini-suite at the Hyatt with a 42-inch flat screen TV and complimentary continental breakfast each morning for $76/night! (Plus, the location was right between Charleston proper and Pat's place in West Ashley!)

So... we check in... unpack... I take a "rainfall" shower... and then off to the pool. (One downside to the hotel - there was only an indoor pool, no outdoor pool; oh, well... it was a nice enough indoor pool and for $76 a night...)

(*CHUCKLE*)

Anyway, rather than get too bogged down in detail, let's skip right to dinner!

Our first night in Charleston we took Pat and the boys out to the Mellow Mushroom.

Check out the menu! A perfect place to take three teenagers and brother-in-law who's not a huge foie gras kinda guy! Right in the middle of town... restaurant on street level, bar upstairs, even a bit of rooftop action! Best of all - from my perspective - a damn fine beer selection, both bottled and draught!

We had a bunch of stuff at Mellow Mushroom, including pizzaa, a calzone, and subs. A good time was had by all!

After dinner we strolled around town for awhile just to get our bearings. We had considered hitting Kaminsky's Most Excellent Cafe for dessert... but after all the beer and food... I was done for the evening and Mary and Pat were stuffed as well. The boys of course could have ate more... but we decided "give the adults a break" and so back to the hotel we went while Pat and the boys headed home.

Come Monday morning Mary and I were up, showered, and down to breakfast by 8:30 a.m. followed by an hour at the pool.

We were on the road by 10:30 a.m. or so and our first stop was to pick up the boys at their place. With the boys in tow we drove out to Kiawah Island to check out the area. While there we stopped at the King Street Grill for a few beers and lunch for the boys.

(Jeezus those frigg'n kids can eat...) (*CHUCKLE*)

Leaving Kiawah (St. John's) we stopped by Rosebank Farms (which is a must stop - especially if you have small kids!) and then off we went in search of The Firefly Distillery and the Charleston Tea Plantation. We found both (they're actually pretty much right next to each other) but to my great disappointment the Distillery was closed for the Memorial Day holiday.

Heading back to the hotel for our late afternoon swim break we made one more stop prior to dropping the boys off; we dropped in for a "snack" at Fiery Ron's Home Team BBQ. I've gotta say... outstanding brisket! Fun looking bar too - they host live music!

Well... after dropping the boys off and heading back to the hotel we hit the pool for awhile and then drove into town, parked, and started exploring. We checked out a couple of the city hotels which had been on my list of possibilities... The Mills House Hotel... The King Charles Inn... while waiting for the boys to drive in and meet us.

Charleston's a nice little city to walk around. When the boys arrived we all walked down to the water and strolled the harbor, ending up on the pier. From there - armed with a thirst that needed quenching - we hit The Griffon. A fine, fine pub... let me tell ya! Friendly, knowledgeable bartender along with equally friendly and knowledgeable fellow customers at the bar! (We met two guys there who clued us in to Hominy Grill - more on that later!)

After a few beers and some good conversation it was time for us to part company with our nephews so that they could get home and we could get dinner!

Dinner Monday night... Fulton Five.

Excellent...! Service... atmosphere... food... Fulton Five gets the Barker Seal of Approval.

By the time we finished up, it was after 10:30 p.m. on Memorial Day evening. After a fine meal the thought of our comfy bed and 42-inch flat screen appealed to both of us more so than "hitting the bars." So... back to the Hyatt we went.

Next morning... Tuesday... same morning routine and then off to Highway 61 for a plantation tour!

Only... it was thunderstorm weather. (*SHRUG*) So... Plan B.

We were already halfway to historic Summerville, S.C., so we decided we'd continue driving and explore the scenic little Town. I'm sure glad we did because besides the town itself, there's Azalea Park, the Summerville-Dorchester Museum, and last but not least, the beautiful homes and gardens you'll see just driving and walking around the neighborhood.

Oh... and finally... there's Perfectly Frank's. No website. Just a hole in the wall hot dog joint, but boy, oh, boy... what great hot dogs! Something like 26 different combination dogs! Fine onion rings... excellent sweet tea!

Back to the hotel for a mid-afternoon swim and before we knew it... it was happy hour!

Oh... com'on... you guys know how I love a good happy hour!

A quick shower and off we went into town to check out Carolina's. Fine, fine cocktails... (*WINK*)

As for Tuesday night... it was off to the ballgame - minor league baseball featuring the Charleston Riverdogs playing at home at "The Joe."

Mary is a baseball fanatic and the Riverdogs are a NY Yankees farm team. Mary was in heaven! And me... well... with two dollar mystery beers (I even scored a PBR on one trip to the cooler!) I was a man content...

(*WINK*)

After the game we headed out to Art's Bar and Grill in Mt. Pleasant, S.C., where nephews Sean and Dom did a bit of jamming with their friend, mentor - and most recently producer - fellow artist Danielle Howle.

A few beers... a few wings... great live music... a nice way to finish off the night.

Next morning... Wednesday... I'm in the mood for a bloody mary - or two... or three...

Start the morning with breakfast, followed by a swim, shower and shave. Then... off to Shem Creek!

Specifically... off to Red's for bit of "that non-frozen concoction that helps me hold on."

Let me tell you, folks... Red's is a happy place - even at eleven-something a.m.!

As Mary and I sat down with our drinks... (ok... with my drink...) (ok... ok... ultimately with my drinks - plural) dolphins were literally frolicking just yards away off the pier. And while we had driven to Red's and parked in the lot, others had sailed on in - tying their boats right alongside the bar!

I've gotta say... Red's was one of my favorite stops on the trip.

Across the harbor from Red's there's another well-known drinking and dining establishment, Vickery's, which we checked out. We had a couple beers and some appetizers there, but to tell you the truth, I wouldn't go back. It wasn't that they were "bad;" it's just that if the choice is between Red's of Shem Creek and Vickery's of Shem Creek... well... then there is no choice - Red's wins hands down. (Red's is authentic; Vickery's plays at being authentic.)

Oh... by the way... on the "Vickery's side" of the harbor there's The Shem Creek Inn. I tell ya... good location (in Mt. Pleasant) and a real friendly place based upon our quick walk-around. Plus... attractive, nice-sized outdoor pool overlooking the waterfront.

Pat had Wednesday (and Thursday) off so he and Sean and Brendan met us over by Shem Creek after we had finished up at Vickery's and we all jumped into Pat's SUV and headed to the beach - and a tour of the "big money" beach homes on the Isle of Palms.

After the appropriate "oohing and aahing" at the "beach cottages" and getting our feet wet in the ocean surf it was time for... er... happy hour.

I'm a bad influence on Pat...

We stopped for afternoon cocktails at the Morgan Creek Grill. Nice place. Friendly bartender. Great views. Fine drinks!

Dom had been working, but he got out early so as to meet us there.

From happy hour on the Isle of Palms we drove out to Awendaw Green - aka: "The Barn Jam." (Aka: "Free Music Under The Stars.")

The boys play their frequently - sometimes as a band, often individually - just jamming with other artists; and when they're not playing, they're there to enjoy the music of others and the "down home, come as you are, sit and relax a spell" vibe. I tell ya... we just loved it! A cooler of beer... a congenial atmosphere... a beautiful setting... if you're ever in the area you've gotta check it out - a free show is held every Wednesday!

One other thing about Awendaw South Carolina... it's home to the See Wee Restaurant!

Hot-diggity-damn, folks... if you're ever within 50 miles of Awendaw you've gotta detour to See Wee! (Yep... it's that frigg'n good!)

Hey... do you like shrimp...? Do you like "spicy?" Do you like bleu cheese...??? If so... order the "Black & Bleu Shrimp." (If you don't see it as a special, just ask real nicely if the chef could see his way to cooking you up a batch...!)

Anyway... after a great day and night it was time to head back. Unfortunately, we had one detour to make. (*SNORT*) Dom had left the barn jam early because he had work the next morning... and... right as the rest of us were packing up to head home Dom called to tell his dad that he was stuck on the highway about a mile from home with a flat tire. (*CHUCKLE*)

Kids, huh... (*SHAKING MY HEAD IN AMUSEMENT*)

Well, the kid was having trouble changing his own tire so his dad - accompanied by us - had to "come to the rescue." No biggie. Pat had a better jack in his SUV. It took us 10 minutes to change the kid's tire for him with me busting Dom's chops the whole time. (*WINK*)

Afterwards... back to the hotel and in bed by 1:00 a.m.

Thursday morning... slept in a bit. No trip to the buffet because Thursday was to be our "Hominy Grill" breakfast day!

We had been clued in to the Hominy Grill by the guys we had met at the Griffon on Monday evening. They - and the bartender - told us that it was a "must stop" on the "foodie trail" - particularly for us yankees! And man... they were right!

I had me (*GRIN*) one of them thar (*CHUCKLE*) "Big Nasty Biscuits" that towers above the plate and is lovingly stuffed with
fried chicken breast, cheddar cheese and topped with sausage gravy - plus a side of homemade sausage of course! (Oh... and some homemade toasted sunflower seed bread with butter and homemade jam...) (*WINK*)

Yum... yum... yum... your truly just LOVES the South!

Mary had country fried steak.

Hominy Grill is a bit off the beaten track, but well worth the trip through residential Charleston to get there for a meal.

Next stop... off to the Beachwalker County Park on Kiawah Island.

A damn fine little beach; fairly secluded, uncrowded, a great place for the toddler crowd... the senior crowd... and everyone aged in between who just wants a pleasant day at the beach.

After the laid back Kiawah experience we headed back towards Charleston for a different beach experience - Folly Beach.

When I write "different" I don't mean better or worse
. Nope. I simply mean that Folly beach is larger, more crowed, more developed... it's a destination in itself aside from simply taking a dip or taking a nap or reading a book was the waves lap across the sands. Folly Beach is more like the Jersey Shore or Myrtle Beach or the more popular Florida beaches.

We met Pat, Sean and Brendan at Folly Beach. We swam for about an hour... hung for a bit longer than that... and after getting our fill of the sun and the surf we headed over to Rita's for a couple beers and... once again... some food for those bottomless pits known as "Uncle Bill's Nephews."

(*CHUCKLE*) (*GRIN*)

After Folly Beach and Rita's it was time for us to part ways with Bro-in-law Pat and the nephews. For on Thursday night... Mary and I had reservations at Robert's of Charleston!

As you read this, folks, Robert's is no more; Robert retired yesterday - June 12, 2010 - and the world is poorer for it...

Robert's is - was - a classic "Bill's kinda place."

Excellent food... truly outstanding service... and of course at center stage the founder, chef, host, and star of Robert's... Robert Dickson.

Let me tell you folks something: Prior to our trip I had thrown out a request to local Charlstonians to share their local dining recommendations with me. A few folks told me that they'd never recommended Robert's but after having been there... I'm guessing these folks had never dined there.

Now it wasn't that Robert's had the best food I've ever eaten. No. The haute cuisine was certainly up to the standards one would expect, but I'm a New Yorker... I'm a foodie... such food is "my thing." (*SHRUG*)

No. What made Robert's well worth the $220 we spent there was "the package," the whole experience... not just the food and wine (which was free flowing and both the white and red were excellent choices), but the atmosphere, the service... being surrounded by fellow diners who appreciated all the evening provided just as Mary and I did.

Allow me a "shout out" to a fine southern gentleman - Steve Peper - and his lovely wife Cindy who we met a Robert's. Two of the nicest people you'd ever hope to meet while traveling. (Funny thing... small world... Cindy has a cousin who is one of the owners of See Wee!)

Turns out Steve and Cindy - who were our "neighbors" at Robert's - are regulars there and friends of Robert. At one point during dinner I had mentioned that I hoped Robert would sing "Impossible Dream" from "Man of La Mancha." Unfortunately... by the time our evening reached its conclusion Robert had sung many lovely songs, but not that one.

Well... fortunately... before Robert could escape back to the kitchen, Mr. Peper buttonholed him and asked him to do one more song - The Impossible Dream. Well... at first Robert replied that he wasn't sure if his piano accompanist had the music, but after a quick consultation Robert again stood at the top of the room - right next to our table - and belted out my request.

What can I tell ya, folks... Southern hospitality is more than simply a cliche.

After leaving Robert's it was time to take a stroll (it's hard to beat a June night in Charleston!) in search of a nightcap. We ended up at the Rooftop Bar at the Vendue Inn. A Macallan for me... a decaf coffee for Mary... and our last evening in Charleston was complete.

Friday... our last morning...

Same morning routine only with packing to do. (Well... ok... packing for Mary to do...)

(*HUGE FRIGG'N GRIN*)

(Damn it! Don't HIT me, woman...!!!)

(Now... where was I...??? Oh, yeah...)

Although our flight wasn't till 6:25 p.m. we wanted to visit a plantation so we checked out of the Hyatt Place by 10:45 a.m and after a quick stop at in West Ashley to say our final goodbyes to the boys, off we headed up Rt. 61 to the the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens.

Did the plantation knock our socks off? No. Was it worth the price of admission? Yeah... in the sense that it costs a heck of a lot of money to keep historical sites such as Magnolia operating and both Mary and I definitely want to live in a world where such historical sites are kept up and open to the public.

(Next trip down to Charleston we'll check out one or more of the other area plantations: Drayton Hall, Boone Hall, and/or Middleton Place.)

After a few hours spent exploring the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens it was time for a late lunch. Well... recall my raves concerning See Wee...

(*WINK*)

As it so happens, Awendaw - and thus See Wee - are right on the way to Myrtle beach from the Charleston area. So... of course we stopped at See Wee for lunch and the fine folks there were kind enough to humor this demanding (but friendly!) Yankee by fixing me up another order of those wonderful black and bleu shrimp. (With a pitcher of Palmetto Ale to wash 'em down with, of course!)

Mary had her country fried steak...

Well... not much more to tell. It was a straight drive up Rt. 17 to the airport. We got there in plenty of time... the plane took off right on schedule and landed a bit early... Mike (my father-in-law) and Mike (one of my brothers-in-law) were at LGA to pick us up... less than an hour later we were back in Pearl River... a half hour after that we were home in Harriman.

All in all, folks... another fine, fine Barker vacation!

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